A treasure just steps from Casa Viaemilia
You don't even need a car to leave Casa Viaemilia: Via Modena, where our apartment is located, literally continues as Via XXIV Maggio — same street, just a different name. Walk about fifty metres and you'll find yourself in front of one of the most important buildings in Alessandria's history: the former Church of San Francesco, returned to the city after two hundred years and a long restoration.
Medieval origins
The presence of Franciscan friars in Alessandria is documented as early as 1217. A small first church dedicated to Saint Francis was built in 1215, but the building we see today came shortly after: work on the actual church began between 1249 and 1254, and in 1268 Pope Clement IV issued a papal bull urging its completion.
Construction continued for decades: the church was finished between 1290 and 1300, the works were definitively concluded in 1309, and its solemn consecration took place in 1314. From 1350 onward, a bell tower and a chapel — probably dedicated to Saint Louis — were added.
A Gothic style with Lombard roots
Architecturally, the church is a significant example of Italian Gothic, still tied to the Lombard Romanesque style it was evolving from. The plan is rectangular, without a projecting transept, with a straight apse. Inside, three naves — the central one wider than the others — are separated by brick pillars supporting ribbed cross-vaults with decorated keystones. Outside, exposed brick dominates, enriched with terracotta decorations on the main façade: a front about 22 metres wide, divided into three sections by four buttresses, with a round-arched portal at its centre.
From church to barracks: two complicated centuries
In 1802, Napoleonic laws suppressing religious orders reached Piedmont too: the Franciscans were expropriated, and with the 1803 Edict of Saint-Cloud the building became a military barracks. In 1816 the church was literally cut in two by a new floor: an artillery depot below, troop quarters above. In 1821 the convent became barracks for the Sardinian Dragoons, and then in 1833, under King Carlo Alberto, the whole complex was turned into a military hospital — a role it kept until it closed in 1989.
Saved from demolition, twice
The building's history includes two real brushes with demolition: in 1919, superintendent Cesare Bertea opposed a demolition plan, recognising its historical value; in 1952, mayor Nicola Basile revived the idea, which went nowhere. In 1989 the Municipality of Alessandria acquired the building and began the first restoration works. Since 2023, a larger renovation project — funded with around €14.5 million from Italy's PNRR recovery plan — has brought the building back to light: the church alone, restored with about €7.8 million, is now set to become a new civic museum, while the rest of the complex will house university student housing, public offices and an auditorium for the Vivaldi Conservatory.
What you can see today
Among the most precious surviving elements are a fresco from the first half of the 14th century depicting the Madonna and Child with two angels, polychrome decorative paintings, and the bell tower, with its elegant pointed arches across several tiers — altered in the 19th century but still clearly recognisable. The double-pitched roof rests on a timber structure typical of Piedmont, while the ground-floor interiors still bear the marks of their 19th-century transformation into barracks and hospital.
How to get there from Casa Viaemilia
It's probably the shortest "day trip" you'll take during your stay: from the entrance of Casa Viaemilia, at Via Modena 8, simply walk along the continuation of the street — which changes its name to Via XXIV Maggio — to reach the church's façade, at number 5, in about a minute.
Practical information
The former Church of San Francesco reopened to visitors in summer 2026, after restoration, with guided tours by reservation:
These times refer to the summer 2026 schedule (through 27 September): we recommend checking current availability with Alessandria's Culture Office (tel. +39 0131 515777), or simply asking us at check-in — we're happy to help you book a visit.
Conclusion
Eight hundred years of history, from Franciscan friars to Savoy dragoons, from a military hospital to the museum of the future: the Church of San Francesco tells the story of Alessandria's soul better than most guidebooks — and it's literally steps from where you'll be sleeping. If you're staying with us, don't miss it.